12 NIGHTS AND 13 DAYS:

OCTOBER 08th to OCTOBER 20th 2007

Collect from PHALABORWA airport depart from HOEDSPRUIT airport

9 Nights Kruger National Park
3 Nights Big Cat Reserve



*** This itinerary was changed slightly into a tailor made trip to have 9 nights in the Kruger National Park and 3 nights at the Big Cat Reserve, instead of 10 nights in the Kruger National Park and 2 at the big cats reserve (as advertised on the scheduled itinerary) ***

DISTANCE TRAVELLED IN THE KRUGER NATIONAL PARK :: 1593 KM

 
DAY 1 :: Monday – 8th Oct 2007 Arrive Phalaborwa Airport and enter Kruger National Park - Overnight Shingwedzi Camp
We collected our guests at midday from Phalaborwa Airport which is a 1h and 15 minute flight from Johannesburg. 5 minutes later we were inside Kruger heading towards Shingwedzi Camp in the Northern section of the national park. This day is usually considered as a transfer day as the camp is 120 km from the entrance gate. Never the less, we managed to see 3 of the "big 5" on our way, buffalo, elephant and a white rhino which are very rare to see in the north of Kruger.

We arrived at camp just after 5 and enjoyed our first dinner in the Kruger at the camps restaurant overlooking the Shingwedzi River.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
Rarely seen in the North of the Kruger, we spotted this White Rhino with one ear right next to the road near the Mooiplaas picnic site
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Female Cape Buffalo and calf


DAY 2 :: Tuesday– 9 th Oct 2007 First full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Shingwedzi Camp

First full day in the park in the far north. We departed the camp at the gate opening time of 05.30 am!
We headed north along Mphongolo Loop coming across a big bull Elephant 10 meters from the car, luckily he was feeding peacefully on the Mopane trees and paid us little attention.
Near Babalala picnic site, we found 8 buffalo at Boyela Waterhole who after giving us some rude looks, decided to move off into the bush.
B/fast at Babalala with a hot cup of coffee to combat the cold morning.

Winding our way back down the Mphongolo river, we came across a young female leopard who backed off into the river. We patiently waited as quietly as we could and after 20 mins or so she showed herself again and crossed the road in front of our vehicle.

Whilst waiting for the Leopard we became aware of a small group of White Fronted Bee Eaters that were flying about and managed to get some shots.

Before leaving on the afternoon we photographed a Crested Barbet at its nest in the Camp. It was still in the process of preparing the nest which is typically built inside a tree trunk. Our PM drive took us along the Kanniedood Dam well known for its bird life, crocodiles and hippos. One of the highlights were two Nyala bulls, antelope that are most commonly seen in the North of Kruger.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
Female Leopard on the Mphongolo Loop crossing the road in front of our vehicle
Copyright :: Stu Porter
White Fronted Bee eater taking off from its perch
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Crested Barbet clearing out its nest in a tree in the camp grounds
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Nyala Bull, mostly seen in the North of the park.
Nyala's are easily recognizable by their "orange socks"
A
DAY 3 :: Wednesday – 10 th Oct 2007 Second full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Shingwedzi Camp
We woke up to soft drizzling rain, the rainy season had arrived, much earlier than last year.

Despite this we drove out at our usual 5.30 start, this time heading south along the Red Rocks road. Zebra, Giraffe, Impala and Waterbuck made up our sightings for the morning before we ended up at Tshanga view point. From there we visited a large dam, which was teaming with bird life. Fish Eagle, Saddle billed Stork, Yellow billed Stork, Open Billed Stork, African Spoonbill, Brown Hooded Kingfisher,Pied Kingfisher, Egyptian Goose, Three-banded plover and Chestnut-banded plover to name but a few.

After enjoying our delicious packed lunches, we left the dam and headed back towards camp where we came across 7 lions in the Shingwedzi riverbed, enjoying the cool weather. 5km past the Lions we came across a leopard with a kill in a palm grove. The female leopard lay in the open for a while before returning for a feed. Today was definitely a cat day !!

A Green Pigeon and Brown Headed Parrots greeted us before we returned to camp in the late afternoon.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Brown Hooded Kingfishers hunt most of their food away from any water but they
do also dive into water after prey like the other Kingfishers.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
A pride of 7 Lions in the Shingwedzi River, enjoying a rest on the cool river sand
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The female Leopard who had a kill stashed in a palm grove
about 500meters from the turn off to Shingwedzi camp
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Green Pigeons are fruit eaters and are often found in
Fig trees along the bigger rivers
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Brown Headed Parrots utter a very distinctive screeching call and
usually travel around in small groups.
They are specialized seed eaters
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DAY 4 :: Thursday – 11 th Oct 2007 Third full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Letaba Camp
As soon as the gates opened on our 3rd morning we went to see if the leopard was still there and sure enough she was still protecting the kill in the palm grove. We sat with her for a while and then decided to head towards our next destination. Letaba camp. We came across a beautiful juvenile Bateleur Eagle on our way. The Eagle was right next to the road and posed for some great photos before taking off.

We reached Letaba just before lunch time.

After lunch we stayed in camp to photograph some of the bird activity which is always excellent in the camp, especially during spring time when the birds are nesting. Some highlights were a Scops Owl and a Kurrichane Thrush feeding newly hatched chicks.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
The young Bateleur that we found next to the road.
They attain their adult plumage after about 6-7 years
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Scops Owls are often found in the camps
resting up during the day, this one was roosting
close to the reception area
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DAY 5 :: Friday – 12 th Oct 2007 Fourth full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Letaba Camp
We drove towards the Mingerhout dam in the early morning on the lookout for the resident Lion pride. Along the way we found a rarely seen African Wildcat in the early morning light. After our breakfast of fresh fruit, yogurt & cereal, we headed back towards Letaba Camp. The recent rains had swelled a small tributary of the Letaba River and we spent over an hour with a pair of Saddle Billed storks, a pied kingfisher, lesser striped swallows collecting mud for their nest and a monitor lizard. Lunch was enjoyed back at camp.

In the afternoon we traveled down the Letaba River in search of hippo which we found basking in the afternoon sun. They provided much entertainment with their snorting and grunting and we were also lucky to capture some lovely Hippo “yawns"

Copyright :: Stu Porter
The original ancestor of all domestic cats,
African Wild Cats are rarely seen in the Wild

Copyright :: Stu Porter
These Lesser Striped Swallows returned time and time again to the muddy puddle
in front of our vehicle to collect mud with which they use to build their nest
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Water monitor lizards are excellent swimmers and are found near a water source.
The long forked tongue flicks in and out and is used to pick up
the scent of possible prey
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Hippos in the Engelhard dam near Letaba camp.
The "yawn" does not mean a hippo is tired - it is in fact an
aggressive threat display
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DAY 6 :: Saturday – 13 th Oct 2007 Fifth full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Skukuza Camp
We departed Letaba Camp at gate opening time and headed south towards Skukuza Camp, the headquarters of the Kruger National Park.

On the way we came across a group of Hyaena lying in the middle of the road enjoying the morning sun. The youngster among them was quite interested in our vehicle and continued to greet the other members of the clan before her lay down in the road a suckled from his mum.

A large Elephant right next to the road provided an opportunity for some detailed close ups.

On the journey down, we stopped at Satara Camp for a break and a closer inspection of some of the big trees in the camp revealed the future nest site of an African Hoopoe. The nest was not occupied yet but the male continued to return to the nest to try and convince his nearby mate that it was the place to be !!

At Mazithi waterhole we watched a comical interaction between a Hippo and Grey Heron who tried to perch on the Hippos back.

Just before Skukuza we came across an elephant carcass smothered in hungry vultures. The biggest of the African Vultures, the Lappet faced was in charge and proceeded to shout orders from his high vantage point.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Young Hyaena cub near Letaba Camp
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Elephant Tusk and Trunk detail
Copyright :: Stu Porter
African Hoopoe near a potential nest site in Satara Camp

Copyright :: Stu Porter
It is rare to see large water birds perching on the back of Hippos.
This Grey heron was eventually chased off by the Hippo who clearly
disapproved of his unwelcome visitor

Copyright :: Stu Porter
Lappet Faced Vulture on top of the Elephant carcass,
with White Backed Vultures below
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DAY 7 :: Sunday – 14 th Oct 2007 Sixth full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Skukuza Camp
We headed further south today towards Lower Sabie camp and the well known sunset dam. Along the way near the Nwatimirhi river we came across a leopard stalking some impala. After an unsuccessful attempt the leopard crossed the road behind our vehicle and wandered down towards the Sabie River. We headed on to the Hippos at Sunset dam and then towards the Mlondozi Mountain where we came across 3 Lionesses and 3 cubs, resting up in a dry river bed.

A regular hotspot on all the photo safaris, Sunset Dam near Lower Sabie Camp provided some excellent bird life, one highlight was a Three Banded Plover who came really close to the vehicle.

After lunch we visited a bird hide where we watched an African Darter fishing and catching its dinner. A pair of Goliath Herons were busy building their nest and African Jacana's, Black Crakes and Green Backed Herons were all spotted amidst the constant sounds of Lesser Masked Weavers building nests.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
The male Leopard that stalked a group of Impala near the Nwatimirhi causeway
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Three Banded Plover with Blue Green Algae covered beak.
The Algae which can be toxic is caused by the large amounts of dung
and urine that are deposited by the resident float of Hippo
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Two of the three lionesses near the Muntshe mountain
Copyright :: Stu Porter
A Lesser Masked Weaver inspects the entrance to his
newly built nest - hoping it will pass the female's
quality control test !!
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DAY 8 :: Monday– 15 th Oct 2007 Seventh full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Skukuza Camp
We revisited the bird hide in the early morning and were treated to a fairly close sighting of the beautiful Malachite Kingfisher and the Goliath Herons.

Our spotting vehicle called in a pack of Wild Dogs near the high level bridge over the Sabie River so we decided to get there as soon as possible in the hope of catching a glimpse of these rare and endangered predators. Luckily for us they had made a recent kill, the unfortunate victim, a young Kudu bull. 15 dogs were counted altogether and we were treated to a spectacle as the youngsters chased each other in and out of the water while the adults chased off the vultures that dared to venture too close to the remains of their kill.

Lunch was enjoyed back at camp and the afternoon drive took us along the river road to the doispane road where we came across a big bull rhino who was spray marking his territory. He crossed the road in front of us and headed off into the bush. Just before camp we came across a lovely herd of the most common antelope in Kruger, the very photogenic Impala.

A group of Kudu were our final sighting on day 8.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
A regular visitor at the bird hide, the small but beautiful
Malachite Kingfisher is a treat to see
Copyright :: Stu Porter
With recorded numbers of only about 250 animals in the Kruger National Park,
the Endangered African Wild Dog, is a rare predator to see.
This vulture was lucky to get away from the leaping dog.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Although very common, the humble Impala can often offer great photo opportunities.
Copyright :: Justyna Porter
The symbol of the South African National Parks, the Male Kudu is perhaps the
most beautiful of all the antelope
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DAY 9 :: Tuesday– 16 th Oct 2007 Eighth full day in Kruger National Park - Overnight Skukuza Camp
Departing Skukuza early in the morning, we headed back to the area where we had found the Wild dogs and found 3 of them hunting Impala. They did not hang around though and sped off into the bush after their prey. We did however get to see one up close as it ran across the road in front of our vehicle.

Closer to Satara we heard a report of lions on a giraffe kill and headed down the Sweni River to the site of the kill. Unfortunately we were a day late as the young giraffe had already been devoured and the lions had moved off into thick cover.

Further on we came across 2 secretary birds on the road and managed to watch these incredible birds as they hunted for small prey items in the grasslands around Satara Camp. We also came across many Steenbok (Stone buck) and a beautiful male Waterbuck. Towards the end of our afternoon drive we came across a family of Ground Hornbills. The adults were collecting food for a youngster who would rush up to the adults every time they found a juicy morsel. Grasshoppers, lizards, frogs, tortoises, mongooses, mice and snakes are only some of the items on this stealthy hunters prey list.

The open grassland areas of central Kruger attract the bulk grazers. Zebra sightings are particularly good in this area and we came across a group feeding close to the road.

Copyright :: Stu Porter
Very successful predators, African Wild dogs use stamina to run their prey down.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Secretary Birds enjoy the open grassland habitat around Satara Camp
in the central section of the Kruger National Park
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The small Steenbok is a hardy antelope able to survive without drinking water.
All the moisture it needs can be obtained from the plant material it eats.
The female pictured here does not grow horns like the male.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The spectacular curved horns of a male Waterbuck are used in defense and during
fighting over mating rights for the females.
They readily flee into water if pursued by predators.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The Southern Ground Hornbill is an endangered bird in the Kruger National Park
where its numbers are very low. Capable of killing tortoises and small mammals, their beak
is used as a formidable weapon. Food items such as these frogs and lizards are collected
for the juveniles who only obtain the bright red adult colouring under the throat after about 5 years
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Zebra groups are not territorial and consist of a Stallion
and his group of females (his harem) and their offspring.
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DAY 10 :: Wednesday– 17 th Oct 2007 Morning spent in Kruger National Park, afternoon at Big Cat Reserve
We departed the Kruger Park but on our way to the exit gate we came across a group of Hyaena walking up the road towards us. Further on we came across a group of Dwarf Mongooses who posed really nicely for the cameras.

By lunch time we had arrived at the big cat reserve for the second part of the photo safari. Here at the big cat reserve, under the supervision of our experienced ranger we are able to photograph with more freedom than in the Kruger Park. Here we are allowed out of the vehicle and our aim is to focus on the big cats, Lion, Leopard and Cheetah.

Rhino, Crocodile and Cheetah were on the cards for the afternoon session but we started with some bird life at the Lodge. Red Headed Weavers were nest building and a male Marico Sunbird was feeding on the Cape Honey Suckle bush near the dining area. Unfortunately due to the approach of a large African Thunderstorm, we decided to postpone our afternoon itinerary and instead we visited the latest addition to the reserve, an orphaned Leopard cub named AMANZA. Although only 8 weeks old this little guy who is being raised by the owners of the reserve, put on a great show of his climbing skills !!

Copyright :: Stu Porter
Three Spotted Hyaena's came up the road towards on our way to the exit gate at Orpen
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The tiny Dwarf Mongoose is one of the two social groups of Mongoose found in the Kruger Park.
The other one being the much larger Banded Mongoose.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Red Headed Weaver males are striking birds but their
nest building skills are not as delicate as those of the
Masked and Lesser Masked Weavers.
Instead of strips of grass and reeds, they choose sticks as
building material , resulting in a fairly messy looking nest.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
The male Marico Sunbird is one of the more striking sunbird's in South Africa.
Here pictured feeding on the nectar of the Cape Honey Suckle flower.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
AMANZA, the little male Leopard cub orphaned a few weeks
after birth - pictured here at 8 weeks old
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DAY 11 :: Thursday– 18 th Oct 2007 First full day at the Big Cat Reserve - overnight at Tshukudu Lodge
Our day began with a short search for Savanna the tame Cheetah who wanders the reserve in search of her own food. Before long, Chris our ranger had picked up her signal using the telemetry system and when we reached her we found that she had only seconds earlier, caught a male Steenbok. Savanna had the Steenbok in the customary "strangle hold" and once the Steenbok had stopped breathing the Cheetah let it go and began feeding right in front of us.

What an amazing introduction !! unfortunately we could not remove the radio collar around her neck so instead of taking photos we watched the amazing cycle of life unfold before our eyes. We decided to leave Savanna with her hard earned prize and headed to the Lions instead.

Inside their large enclosure we found the male and female together and they posed nicely for some classic Lion portraits !!

After a very enjoyable breakfast we spent time around the camp again photographing the weavers and then at about 15:30 we headed to our meeting with 2 male Cheetah and a female King Cheetah for some close up adrenaline pumping photography.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Male and female mating pair - it was probably towards the end
of the females cycle as they did not perform for over an hour !!
Copyright :: Stu Porter
They were more keen on resting - possibly after a long night !!
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Lying eye level with a Cheetah is something not many people experience !!
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Cheetahs give a warning hiss and then they follow up with a loud throaty cough
whilst at the same time, stamping the ground with their two front paws.
a
DAY 12 :: Friday – 19 th Oct 2007 Second full day at the Big Cat Reserve - overnight at Tshukudu Lodge
The start of the day was rather dull and overcast but we still proceeded to the enclosure where Jabula the orphaned Leopard stays. After waiting for the weather to brighten for an hour or so we decided to go back first for breakfast and return to the Leopard enclosure afterwards.

After a delicious breakfast the weather did clear up and we finally got our shots of Jabula in his favourite Marula tree.

After Lunch the weather turned again and so we decided to do a general game drive on the property to search for the pride of wild Lions and the Elephants.

The Male Lion proved to be elusive but we did catch up with the elephant, one of which proceeded to smash and break trees right in front of us !!

We had a wonderful dinner outside in the Boma around a crackling fire and thereafter enjoyed watching the wild Porcupines being fed.
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Jabula the orphaned Leopard - at home in his Marula tree
Copyright :: Stu Porter
It is incredible to watch the agility of a Leopard as it climbs with ease in a tree
 
DAY 13 :: Saturday – 12 th Oct 2007 Departure day from EASTGATE AIRPORT
On our final morning we had a date with Savanna the tame Cheetah that had caught the Steenbok on our first morning... although we do want her to eat - we hoped she had not caught anything else - as this was our last morning !!!

Thankfully she had not :) and so we were able to take her radio collar off and with help from our very obliging ranger ... Chris :) we managed to get the shots we were after - running shots of savanna in action. As the light again was not as bright as we had wanted we decided to go with it and turn down the shutter speeds to get some artistic movement shots. Its always good to keep your options open and instead of going home with no pictures at all, we got a few good uns !!

Departed from EASTGATE airport back to JHB at 14:10
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Savanna running 1
Copyright :: Stu Porter
Savanna Running 2
 

Mammals:
Lion
Leopard
Buffalo
Elephant
White Rhino
Side Striped Jackal
Black Backed Jackal
Vervet Monkey
Baboon
Lesser Bush baby
Small Spotted Genet
Slender Mongoose
Dwarf Mongoose
Banded Mongoose
Spotted Hyaena
Burchell's Zebra
Warthog
Hippo
Giraffe
Blue Wildebeest
Common Duiker
Klipspringer
Steenbok
Impala
Kudu
Nyala
Bushbuck
Reed buck
Waterbuck
Tree Squirrel
African Wild Cat

Birds:
Secretary Bird
Hooded Vulture
White Backed Vulture
Lappet-faced Vulture
White Headed Vulture
Tawny Eagle
Martial Eagle
Brown Snake Eagle
Bateleur Eagle
African Fish Eagle
Lizard Buzzard
Dark Chanting Goshawk
African Scops Owl
Pearl spotted Owlet
Barred Owl
Reed Cormorant
Darter
Grey Heron
Purple Heron
Great Egret
Cattle Egret
Green Backed Heron
Hamerkop
Woolly necked stork
Saddle billed stork
Marabou Stork
Yellow Billed Stork
White Faced Duck
Hadeda Ibis
Egyptian Goose
Spur-winged Goose
Crested Francolin
Swainson's Spurfowl
Natal Francolin
Helmeted Guinea fowl
Black Crake
Moorhen
Red-crested Korhaan
African Jacana
Three-banded Plover
Crowned Lapwing
Senegal Lapwing
Blacksmith Lapwing
White-crowned Lapwing
Black-winged Stilt
Water thick-knee
Red-eyed Dove
African Mourning Dove
Cape Turtle Dove
Laughing Dove
Emerald-spotted Dove
African Green Pigeon
Brown Headed Parrot
Grey go-away Bird
Burchell's Coucal
Speckled Mouse bird
Pied Kingfisher
Brown hooded Kingfisher
White-fronted Bee-eater
Malachite Kingfisher
Little Bee-eater
Lilac-breasted Roller
Purple Roller
Hoopoe
Green Wood-Hoopoe
African Grey Hornbill
Red Billed Hornbill
Southern Yellow Billed Hornbill
Southern Ground Hornbill
Trumpeter Hornbill
Crowned Hornbill
Black-collared Barbet
Crested Barbet
Cardinal Woodpecker
Black-headed Oriole
Wire-tailed Swallow
Arrow marked Babbler
Kurrichane Thrush
Chinspot Batis
African Pied Wagtail
Grey Headed Bush-shrike
Burchell's Starling
Greater Blue-eared Starling
Red-winged Starling
Red-billed Oxpecker
Red Billed Buffalo Weaver
Southern Grey Headed Sparrow


Reptiles:
Nile Crocodile
Water Monitor Lizard
Leopard Tortoise
Serrated Hinged Terrapin
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